There is the 16th arrondissement most people think they know — its Haussmann boulevards, the Trocadéro, the Seine — and then there is the other one, the one its residents guard jealously. A village within a city, where every street holds a surprise, if you know where to look.
Secret Gardens
The Parc de Bagatelle, nestled in the heart of the Bois de Boulogne, is one of Paris's least-visited jewels. Its history reads like a novel: in 1777, the Count of Artois bet Marie-Antoinette he could build a château in under two months. The challenge was met in 64 days. Today, its rose garden is home to over 1,200 varieties of roses and has hosted an international competition every summer since 1907.
Lesser-known still, the Jardin des Serres d'Auteuil, on the southern edge of the Bois de Boulogne, surprises with its understated elegance. Its Victorian greenhouses date from 1898 and house a rare botanical collection. Most Parisians themselves have never heard of it.
Neighbourhood Tables Worth Knowing
A few minutes' walk from our residence, Le Petit Rétro (5 rue Mesnil) has upheld the art of the Parisian bistro since 1904: listed tilework, turquoise banquettes, a monumental zinc bar. Hand-cut steak tartare and a hearty pâté maison, served without fuss in an atmosphere that breathes Belle Époque.
For something more refined, Alan Geaam (19 rue Lauriston) serves a Franco-Lebanese cuisine of rare elegance — a well-earned Michelin star, and menus that tell an extraordinary personal story.
For the ultimate treat, Le Pré Catelan (chef Frédéric Anton, 3 Michelin stars) remains one of France's great restaurants, hidden among the trees of the Bois as if to preserve its sense of secrecy.
Paris's Most Secret Bar
Saint James Paris (5 place du Chancelier Adenauer) is arguably the most discreet address in the 16th. A private club by day, its library bar opens to the public each evening from 7 p.m. Leather armchairs, globe-trotting memorabilia, memorable cocktails: the place exists outside of time, which is exactly what makes it irresistible.
Shopping Like a Local
On rue de la Pompe, Réciproque spreads five consignment boutiques over a few dozen metres. This is where the 16th's great families entrust their Chanel, Hermès and Balenciaga pieces between seasons — a chic paradox, and one of the arrondissement's best-kept pleasures.
Back at the residence, one thing is certain: the 16th has not finished surprising you.
